My Trip Around the World
From Boston Jan. 1900 to Boston [no second date]
I was made & dressed in Dec. 1899 by Miss Emma E. Adams of Oswego, NY & given by her to the International Doll Collection. This collection of dolls is made up from dolls from all over the world dressed like the natives of the countries from which they came. Nearly all the dolls have an interesting history & as I had none only what I have told, the owner of the Collection thought I might take a trip around the world & make for myself a history & perhaps do good to needy little children as the Collection does by exhibits, the money obtained to go to charity for which I may be loaned.
I was to have started Jan 1 – 1900 but by many requests I waited that I might help to raise money for little needy ones.
The Adams Express Company has kindly offered to start me on my mission free of expense.
Many little girls & boys as well as grown ups bade me farewell at my last exhibits March 1st – 1900 at Hotel Vendome – in aid of the School for Crippled Children & March 15-16 & 17th Tremont Temple for a fund for a home for aged ladies. One little girl asked me if I were not afraid to go by myself on the long long journey & seemed to feel very sorry for me until I told her I was glad to go knowing I should meet with kind people everywhere who would send me where they thought best all over the United States perhaps & then across the ocean back to Boston to my 600 brothers & sisters of the Collection who will gladly welcome me to again join them in their mission of love to little children
Columbia
March 1900 –
Left Boston for Philadelphia Penn via Adams Express April 12th 1900
Left Philadelphia for Pittsburgh Pa via Adams Express Co April 13th 1900
“Columbia” well th(???) and Left Pittsburgh Pa for Chicago Ills by Adams Express Co.
April 14 – 1900
Columbia had a most pleasant visit in the Queen City of the West. Was the admired of all Admirers.
Adams Express Co.
Cinti. O April 25th 1900
St. Louis Mo Apr 30th 1900
I arrived here April 27th and was so well pleased with the city and the attention shown me that I decided to remain over until Monday night April 30th when I leave for Kansas City Mo —Columbia
Kansas City Mo May 9th 1900
Miss Columbia’s visit to Kansas City was surely a pleasant one, in additon to complimentary noticed in the newspapers, she received many calls from admiring friends.
Adams Express Co.
Kansas City Mo.
(???) May 17 -00
My stay in the Queen City of the west was very pleasant indeed and we are now off for the Centennial State Capital, Denver. —Columbia
Silverplume, Colorado May 23, 1900
My trip from Denver around the Worlds famous “Loop” in the heart of the Rockies, on (missing) of Colorado and Southern Railway was the most delightful yet taken.
The representative of the Railway Company gave me a souvenir of my trip which I have pasted on the next page. Columbia
(Entry in Spanish) En el interes de la Senorita Columbia muchos amigos! espanoles (???) en el Estado del Colorada America. Yo he hablado por ella una cordial resepicion en su viaje al redidor del mundo en donde quiera que esta Idiones se habla.
Southern Ute Agency
Iguacia Colorado
June 2, 1900
I could not leave the beautiful state of Colorado without calling on the people who once owned it, so I traveled a day and night across mountains and valleys, arriving at the Southern Ute Indian reservation in time to witness the regular issue of Government rations to the Utes. I was introduced to the leading men and women of the tribe and a dance was given in my honor. I leave here today after having enjoyed my visit with the red man. Columbia
I arrived in Denver Colorado Saturday May 19th and received an enthusiastic reception.
I was entertained at Trinity M.E.S.S. Sunday 20th where a collection was taken up for the poor children of India – The little folks caressed and made much of me. Supt. (T?)anqary made a splendid speech which was enjoyed by 762 in attendance.
I have been to all the principal Colorado points of interest and am delighted with the unsurpassed scenery of the Centennial State.
My visit among the Indians was splendid and my trip to the summit of Pike’s Peak was the most interesting I have yet taken. I have been a long time in Colorado and enjoyed every moment. “Columbia”
Summit of Pike’s Peak, Colorado
June 12, 1900
Nearly all children know something of Pike’s Peak and its historical associations and some have heard wonderful stories from your grandparents of how in the year 1849 they left home in a Prarie(sp) Schooner with the words “Pike’s Peak or Bust” painted across the side or on its canvas covering so that all who read might know that they were bound for the heart of the Rockies or the land of the setting sun. Some went from the love of adventure, others in quest of gold, but all were the courageous sons whose fathers before them had forced westward from the Atlantic Coast to the Mississippi River, the march of civilization. They knew no obstacle. Trecking their way across the plains wearing at first a patient and then determined look which later became serious as they scanned the Western horizon. Was it a beacon light to guide them safely to a harbor of rest that aroused their anxiety? No, it was the mighty Pike’s Peak, with its snow capped crest reared above the clouds, overlooking the plains and standing sentinel over the Rocky Mountain range that was to announce that they had arrived at the barrier that would put to test their boast- and they made it good for, lo, its majesty was an inspiration.
Some of you have been more fortunate, having made the trip with your own papas and mammas in comfort and ease.
I met one of these little girls in Boston, who said the stories of Pike’s Peak were grand, but that the trip to this enchanted spot was a revelation (?) to her of natures stupendous and glorious work. I asked her if she has ever known of a doll making the ascent of Pike’s Peak, and she said she had not.
So being proud of my race, and a little vain as most girl dolls are, I decided to confer a distinction on myself and race we heretofore had not enjoyed by making this wonderful trip. I have travelled a great deal since leaving Boston and have seen much of interest, but being a doll, only, I am not expected to express myself, I know. And up to now have not done so for fear of shocking conventional people who do not think it proper in dolls.
I have had as much experience as most dolls but up to now never knew that we could speak or show animation except in secret with children whose confidence we have. But this is a delusion. Any doll can speak on Pike’s Peak. The most dormant (?) will be aroused to exclaim “Magnificent! Grand! Glorious!”
The evolution is gradual. Dolls do not receive the power of speech immediately on (?) the ascent but begin to show animation and attract the attention of passengers about the Half Way House. From this point up they did not pay so much attention to me, being so much absorbed by what they saw, but occasionally someone would turn around, stare and say she must be electrical.
Oh! See Colorado Springs, Pueblo. Look! the (?) Peaks 115 miles away – Why, that doll’s alive.
But now they no longer wondered at anything so commonplace as a doll showing signs of life under such conditions. With the wonderful Cripple Creek district and all its life just beneath them; the Sangre de Christo and Snowy range to the west, high peaks renowned and proud, protruding ther heads as Pr? (Princess?) of the range; the Plains spread out below them – In all a wonderful panorama of 60,000 square miles of the grandest scenery on Earth.
Souls are not only (moved?) but made here where I feel like stopping and looking over the world instead of travelling so far to see it
I left Manitou for Pike’s Peak at 9:25 am, Arrived on the summit at 11:00 am, left there at 11:45 am and arrived at Manitou again at 1:13 pm.
I was shown every courtesey and attention by the railway officials and passengers, and was given a reception on the Summit to commemorate the occasion of a doll’s first visit there-
At Manitou a delegation of children awaited my return and as they continued to arrive all day, I stopped at the Depot where I received many delegations during the remainder of the day.
Columbia
Los Angeles Cal
July 14, 1900
Miss “Columbia” the noted American Doll made the News Boys Home a call. The boys were delighted and many questions were asked – all of which were satisfactorily answered by the young lady. A vote of thanks was given Miss Columbia for her call – and wish her a safe return to her mama.
M.E. Threlheld
President
I think my call among the boys one of the oddest I’ve made. They scorned the idea of being pleased with a doll, but were interested in my travels. A.H. Bosbyshell
Los Angeles Cal
July 14 1900
Dear Mrs. Horton
My visit to the Protestant Orphans Home was a pleasure and I was glad I was sent on my journey as my object is on my return is to raise a fund for the poor and needy. These homeless little ones was so glad to see me and I think they would like very much to keep me with them
Yours Affect.
Columbia
Mrs. D.G. Stephens
President, Alpines O. Home
Miss Columbia arrived in Los Angeles July 13th with a slight cold on account of the frost in San Francisco but has improved under the bright Sun and cheerful climate here.
I leave Los Angeles after an enjoyable visit, for San Diego, with the hope that I can take passage for some Seaport- Miss Columbia
As I contemplate visiting Foreign countries and need the protection of a strong arm, I have decided to take Uncle Sam along.
He joined me in Los Angeles Cal. July 17th, and will look after my safety in the future. I am under many obligations to Mrs. Effie Cooly for providing my escort as I am very proud of him
Columbia
Coronado Beach, Calif-
July 24, 1900
I reached San Diego and Coronado Beach on Sunday July 22 – After a warm time in Los Angeles – The greater part of the week was spent at Hotel Del Coronado where Uncle Sam and I received every attention and courtesy, just as if we were really great personages, we are dolls with a mission and the people evidently realize that.
One of the most delightful afternoons spent by me in my history as a traveling doll of many months was spent at Coronado Beach, at the New Pavilion. Hundreds of happy children crossed the bay to call on us and to enjoy the program given in our honor – Our only grief is that we must hurry on our way & leave this delightful place – Columbia
San Diego, July 26th 1900
Dear Mrs. Horton, I have had the happiest time here. This is the place of which Charles Dudley Warner says that there is one of the most beautiful views in the world and the ocean breezes have been delightful to me. I had a garden-party given me for the benefit of the Women and Children’s Home and I have been visited by over five hundred children since coming here. I shall remember this visit as long as I can think at all, and as I travel on through the country I find that the world is full of kindly people who live (love?) to do charity. Maybe sometime I will return – I hope I may.
San Diego Cal
Aug 10th 1900
Today I had a very pleasant surprise when the owner of the International Doll Collection called at the Wells Fargo office to inquire about me – she having heard on her arrival from Boston I had been here. I have been delayed on my journey because the steamships have been taken to carry soldiers by “Uncle Sam” – not my escort from Los Angeles – but the big government “Uncle Sam” who lives in Washington D.C. and manages the (waves?) No girls are allowed to go out with these soldiers, not even their mothers or sisters, so of course I being a doll, they would not take me. I heard some one say if I went to China I would have my head cut off perhaps – but I don’t believe that, because every body is good to me and the soldiers would protect me. I might be their “mascot” what ever that is, some one says – I hope I may go to China and Japan even if I can’t land.
My owner was glad and surprised to see me and greatly pleased to know I had been so kindly cared for and made so much of. She told me about my little brothers and sisters in the collection and asked me if I wished to go back to Boston and see them. I told her I did not for I was having too good a time here and very happy. I shall be very sorry to leave San Diego where every body has been so good to me and the army (?) children who came to see me with their dolls I shall never forget. I am very happy to know so much money was raised here for the needy little children of San Diego, at my receptions. The money collected at my receptions on the journey was not to go to Boston as some of the newspapers say but is used in the place where the collection is made.
I am very proud of my American flag, given me by the little children of the Orphan’s Home here to take with me on my journey
Columbia
Sept 15 1900
So there seems to be some uncertainty as to when the next China steamer will sail from here and I have just returned from a prolonged visit to Baja California (Old Mexico) or(?) the land of “tomorrow” – having spent a good portion of my time there on a back shelf in one of the stores at Tia Juana – I feel that I must hasten on my journey and will therefore take tomorrow’s train for the north, where I hope to be more fortunate in my endeavors to secure passage across the Pacific. Columbia
Portland, Oregon
Nov 16 1900
Dear Mrs. Horton
Much to my surprise on arriving in Oregon, I found no rain had fallen for several weeks and never before have I enjoyed such perfect Autumn weather. I was to have had a reception at the Free Kindergarten but owing to the illness of one of the teacher’s mother, I missed that pleasure. Instead of this, the teachers of the Harrison St. School took charge of me for a week. I visited each of the twenty rooms and found the children delighted with my visit. They wondered how I could undertake such a journey, even with Uncle Sam’s protection. I was loth (sic) to leave the School where so many beautiful views could be had of the city and surrounding hills. I particularly admired the views of Mt. Hood and Mt. St. Helen’s, so the teachers presented me with pictures of them which I have pasted in the book for safe keeping. Why the West is called “wild and wooly” I cannot imagine, for I should certainly enjoy living here. I trust it will be my good fortune to return some day. Columbia
Arriving at Portland Oregon unheralded, I spent several weeks in retirement. While not altogether an agreeable experience, and my progress around the world impeded, it was quite restful, and I was consoled by the fact that “Uncle Sam” was near, and as completely ignored as myself. Finally the attention of Wells Fargo (?)as representative was drawn to our state of forlorness and he at once came to the rescue, and helped make life worth living. We remained some days in his office in state, holding an informal levee, and finally we were taken in charge by the pupils of Harrison St. School. During the past threee weeks we have experienced one continual round of pleasure. We have found Portland a beautiful city of 100,000 inhabitants and a charming climate and we wend our way on our trip reluuctantly. We will start next for Seattle, Wash. where we are assured of courteous treatment, and perhaps we may soon embark for the Phillipines or China. Columbia
November 16 /00
Seattle Wash.
Nov. 28 1900
Arriving in Seattle, the Queen city of the Northwest with 80,000 as population I spent a delightful evening with many new friends; telling them my travels and showing the interesting collection I have made en route. I have been showered with attention – taken all over the city and now while resting [?] in Stewart and Holmes Drug Store window I will make note of what Ihave seen. The first thing though, which greets my eyes is the great Alaskan totem pole, brought from Sitska from a deserted Indian village. The water front presented the most amazing spectacle as at one of the wharves lay an Alaskan steamer discharging twenty six boxes of gold dust, approximately $2,000,000.They promise me a picture of this. I saw the great ocean steamers and ships discharging cargo and loading for foreign ports, learning that ships of the greatest draft can float at any of the wharves at low tide – At the Assay Office they told me that $40,000,000 had passed through there from Alaska in the last three years. On the way to Lake[?] Washington a marvelous growth presents itself by the innumerable residences in the course of construction – Seattle is more than favored by having a three mile streetcar service from Salt Water Puget Sound to fresh water Lake Washington; it being a body of water 27 miles long and in many places of unsounded depths. Someday it will be the first fresh water harbor in the world when the canal is cut through from Sound to Lake. One sees beautiful mountain scenery in every direction – In clear weather Mount St. Helen’s can be seen in Oregon, Mt. Baker in British Columbia and Mt. Rainier in Washington.
I have decided to return to San Francisco instead of going to Alaska as they first intended sending me. This is the poorest time of the year to go North.
Later
I have taken the trip to Juneau Alaska much to my delight but on account of other engagements & embarking for other countries was obliged to return on the same boat which brought me here. I came by the courtesy of the Pacific Steamship Co.
Columbia
Nov. 1900
U.S.A. Los Angeles California
Thursday Aug. 18th 1901
Tonight I leave the “City of the Angeles” where I came from San Francisco to see some friends from the East & bid them farewell before leaving this Golden State where I have had a most happy time & hope I have done much good not only in giving pleasure to many little children but in raising money for their charities, though I do not always expect to raise money for I often visit hospitals & homes where the little ones have not money to give but in all these places the loving welcome & Godspeed for my journey has been very grateful to me.
On arriving at the Van Nuys Hotel in this city my friends remarked that my clothes had been kept in better order than my face and hands which were indeed very dirty. I told them I thought this would be had they travelled the long distances I had & been kissed by so many big folk as well as little ones. At Denver over 600 children kissed & shook hands with me at one reception where the money raised went to the starving children of India. However my face & hands have been well washed for my start over the sea so when I get back to Boston if my face is dirty again it won’t be from this dear old land.
Before leaving the United States I want to thank all the Express Companies who have so kindly sent me free from Boston, to all the large cities & many other places to the Pacific Coast, the newspapers who have given me such kindly notices & all the others who have welcomed & aided me in my mission. I have travelled through all the States in the North & met with kindness every where, not for my beauty but to show what good even a little plain rag doll can do, if she tries to make sunshine in the world. Loving friends will spring up & keep her every where.
On arriving in San Francisco I go to the Occidental Hotel to meet Miss Cora E. Fay, a teacher from Colorado Springs, who with many others are to start on the U.S. Transport Thomas for the Phillipine Is. She has most kindly offered to take me as her guest & in good times hopes to forward me to China & Japan & from these places I hope to find my way back via the Mediterranean to New York or Boston c/o Adams Ex. Co. who will send me to my brothers & sisters The International Doll Collection 482 Mass Ave. Boston.
So many ask me what I am to do when I get back. I expect to spend the rest of my life either travelling with the Collection or by myself at Fairs or anywhere where I am needed to aid Children’s charities. My books will go with me & help me tell of my wonderful journey, many forget to write for me or put tags & notices of places on me or my basket but I hope everybody will try to do it in some way.
I am going to stop at the Hawaiian Is. a few days & shall be able to say “aloha” to them as the little doll of the Collection dressed by the former Queen asked me to do when I bade her good-bye in Boston over one year ago.
I am glad I am now to travel without my “telescope” bag in which I have been packed from place to place & I shall be able to see all that is going on around me. I no longer travel under the care of the Ex. Companies as they do not extend beyond the Pacific Coast. The “telescope” in which I have travelled will be returned to Boston covered with tags {/} to show where I have been – I start among total strangers, but am not afraid that I shall not meet with loving & kind people everywhere & trust my success in my prospective journey will be as great as it has been the U. States to which I now say farewell –
Columbia
P.S. As I am a girl they say I ought to have a “postscript” in my book of letters, so I add this one. I find “Uncle Sam” my “escort” is to be left behind, lest the natives of the new countries to which I am going will think he is come to take possession, which would never do at this time so I bid him God Speed to Boston to the care of the International Doll Collection where I shall one day see him again.
Columbia
This morning I arrived at the Occidental Hotel – was rec’d by a friendly clerk and soon met by Miss Fay – with whom I am to cross the ocean. We were friends at once but had little time to talk over past experiences together but know we will become better acquainted on our long steamer voyage.
Columbia
July 22, 1901 San Francisco, Cal.
At noon today – July 23 1901 amid ringing of bells, prolonged whistles – both merry and sad farewells – I sat on upper deck and watched the gap widen and widen below our boat, The U.S.A. T “Thomas” and the wharf. Soon I felt a quiver – a slight rolling sensation and then I knew we had really left for lands unknown. But not until we had passed thro’ the Golden Gate did I so fully realize my undertaking. Oh! how far it seemed. All my brothers and sisters of the “Collection” were left behind and even had I wished to turn back it was now too late. But why should I ever want to do so. Since my birth it has been planned that I should go round the world, go back to Boston and my host of friends and tell them the story of my travels so now I must be brave and go on to fulfill the mission of my life. We have a pleasant state room and all the comforts imaginable. How glad I am to have the opportunity to cross over on the “Teacher Transport” for I felt sure of pleasant friends among them.
Columbia
July 23
This morning we anchored in Honolulu. The U.S.A. Surgeon gave me a “health cert”, so I was the only passenger to escape vaccination. Night before last was “Columbia Night” on board and Capt. Coulling and Miss Fay introduced me to hosts of my fellow passengers – all of whom I was delighted to meet. The Capt. presented me with free Government transportation to Manila.
Columbia
Today at noon we left Honolulu, H.I. where we remained as guests for three and a half days. In this brief journal I cannot tell of all the pleasures which were crowded into those days. In my biography, which I have promised you, I’ll tell you all about the strange and interesting people, their pretty and quaint customs, their museums, schools, college, flower women and diving boys. It is all like a pleasant dream. From our ship we could plainly see old “Punchbowl” like a faithful sentinel over the city, which is built up to the very mt. sides. On the right hand or on the left I could see “precipitous slopes greener than the greenest emerald, the groves climbing far up their flanks, the clouds pressing down on their brows, while from the bosom of the clouds burst half a score of rivulets.
And like a downward snake, each slender stream, along the cliff to fall and pause and fall did seem.”
The native girls came aboard to deck our passengers with pretty garlands of flowers. This is an unique and beautiful custom of the Hawaiians which all the “Thomas” people adopted while there.
I passed by the home of the former Queen L who so kindly donated a doll to our family. The ex-queen now lives quietley (sic) at her own home and as we passed by we caught a glimpse of her, thro’ thick tropical shrubbery – enjoying an interesting game-of croquet. C-
Today at noon we all went aboard and promptly at 12 o’clock the three long whistles from the “Thomas” told our many newly made friends at Honolulu that our departure was at hand and amid waving of handkerchiefs, throwing of long flowery garlands tossing of bouquets, merry goodbyes – the Thomas again started on her voyage. “Oh Hawaii, Hawaii Nei! Cinderella among nations: a handful of ashes on a coral hearth slowly fructifying in the sun and dews of an eternal summer. How lonesome you are and how lovely: and how we have known you and departed from you long to go back again with the love that is yours alone.
The marvelous temperature which is never hot and never cold, the fragrance, so intense after a shower when the ginger and the Japanese lily seem to distill perfume drop by drop, the tinkle of the guitars, the spray-like notes (dashed from shuddering lute strings, the irreproachable languor of a race that is the incarnation of all these elements, this is quite as much as man wants here below – latitude 21o 18’ 23″ North longitude 127o 40’ 45″ West and all this without the asking.”
At Honolulu one of the editors asked for a brief story of my travels which was given him – but I have never rec’d a copy of it and have been told it was possibly neglected – so failed to appear in paper at all.
August 3, 1901 Columbia
Today we anchored in Manila Bay, P.I..
What a successful and happy voyage. No accidents or misfortunes to mar the continuous pleasure of all on board. A healthy happy crowd of enthusiastic teachers. How anxiously they all watched the appearance of the first faint line on the horizon – which foretold a speedy landing! How the decks were lined all day with anxious and expectant faces peering towards the verdant isles which are soon to become the new field of labor. May it prove to be a “labor of love.”
At 3:18 P.M. we anchored but none were allowed ashore until inspection by Manila health officers.
Dr. Atkinson soon came on board to greet us. What an ideal specimen of fine and noble manhood. Tall, dignified, scholarly and of noble bearing, he looked the typical man to undertake and carry out the great task set for him to do.
August 21, 1901 Columbia
Today was spent on board. The health officers ordered all passengers vaccinated so going ashore is postponed for another day and old Manila with its high stone(storm?) wall, tall church steeples and queer people still must be viewed from a distance.
August 22″ 1901 Columbia
At last the day has come to go ashore. All is hurry and excitement and well it may be too, for this is a very rough sea and the waves are going higher each hour an with small launch it takes a long time to carry more than five hundred passengers ashore. I have already missed several launches. I don’t like to crowd and push so that I’d quietly wait for awhile. How some people do insist on being first at such times. I saw one gang plank broken up by the waves dashing the launch against it – one man fell into the sea, but was soon rescued. Oh! dear, they tell me I must come now so I must hastily say adieu to Capt. Coulling, and Capt. Buford (?), Capt. Gounod (?) and all the other officers who have been so kind and courteous to me on this my first long ocean voyage; take a lingering look at the dear old “Thomas” who carried me safely over and hurry down the gangway, and with the others go ashore.
“August 23” 1901 Columbia
Manila, P. I.
Here I am at the “Barracks” and I assigned cot #11, Room “L”.
I have visited all the old churches and cathedrals, the “palace”, attended the theatre one evening and have been the recipient of many kind courtesies by Manila friends.
The first night I was here the many and varied noises kept me awake all night but now I am more accustomed to it and rest well.
Miss Fay has been asked to go to Zamboanga, P. I. to teach and has invited me to go with her for a visit of a few months on the Island of Mindanao and I have accepted.
I am anxious to see all of the Is. (Islands) I can before returning to U.S.A.. The people here are very strange. They amble along with queer walks, wear strangely made clothes. Some of them wear but few clothes at all. Some of the women smoke cigarettes and most of the people ride a funny two-wheeled little cart called a “calais” and another two-wheeled wagon that is used great deal has two small seats facing the center and this is called a “carmatto” (?) We had great fun first few days trying to make ourselves understood but now that we have learned a few words of the native languages and a few words of Spanish we are able to go shopping, driving, etc. without the aid of an intrepreter.
The teachers are all very busy getting ready to go to their various places for their new year’s work.
Miss Columbia
August 31, 1901
Manila, P. I.
Today the teachers all lined up and received a little slip of paper bearing on it the name of their station. I sat and watched for a long time and saw some go away with very sad faces.
Miss Fay told me it was because some were not sent where they had hoped to be, while others found they were finally to be seperated from their most intimate friends.
I was very happy when I learned that we were really to go to Zamboanga for everyone says it is a delightful pueblo and I hope to be the means of at least teaching “love and charity” to all with whom I come in contact.
Columbia
Sept. 1, 1901
On board U.S.A. T Buford
Sept. 11, 1901
In Manila Bay, today we again came on board and are at last bound for our new home.
We were told to come out to the boat early but Miss Fay had so much baggage to attend to that we were delayed. I decided to wait for her so we came out on last launch and the waves were so high the officers said it would be impossible to lower a gangway.
Do you want to know how I came aboard?
They opened one of the large port-holes and I was hauled up through it. There were several ladies too, who came up in the same way.
There had been some mistake about my “pass” so Maj. Jones, the commanding officer said I must be called a dead-head.
Dear me! What a dreadful name, but they treat me royally so I shan’t worry about what my ticket says.
Columbia
On board Buford, Basilan St. Zamboanga Sept. 14, 1901
At last we are here but is growing late so we’ll not go ashore until tomorrow. The voyage has been very pleasant and I am sorry to part with my many new friends.
The Buford goes directly to N.Y. City by way of Suez and Gibralter but I am determined to stay away little longer.
Columbia
Zamboanga, P.I.
Sept. 15, 1901
We came ashore at 2:30 this P.M. and are now all very sad over the news which greeted us here. The death of our President, Mr. McKinley was a great grief for all of us.
We are are huddled together in a little nipa cottage but will soon find other quarters.
Columbia
Zamboanga, P.I.
For twenty-four hours the big gun boats here in the St. fired salutes every thirty minutes in memory of the late President.
Zamboanga is a beautiful “pueblo” down on the beach on the southern point of a peninsula by that name. Just back of the city tall mountains rise and all about us are cocoanut (sic) and banana trees. The natives are very fond of all the tropical fruits. They are delicious. I particularly like the mangoes, guavas, and papaias (papayas) and bread fruits.
In my book-letters I’ll tell you all about how they live, how they cultivate their rice, raise their fruit, weave their cloth, build their houses and many other things which I’ll not have time to tell you now.
We have a great deal of rain here this month so I have been obliged to stay in a great deal. There is a dear little girl named Clara Dodds who lives at our house and she tells me stories on rainy days, teaches me new games and together we have jolly good times.
Columbia
Oct. 1, 1901
Zamboanga, P.I.
Today we moved into our own nipa house. How I wish all my brothers and sisters could see it. It has bamboo railing about the porches, nipa roof etc.
Everybody is very busy.
Columbia
Zamboanga, P.I.
Jan. 5, 1902
What a jolly good Xmas vacation I have had. First over to Isabela, on Island of Basilan, then out on “Mahakuna”, a large schooner for a three days visit, then to Christmas tree for American children in Zamboanga.
Dec. 20, I sailed on chartered boat “Aeolus” for all southern ports of this Island and had a delightful voyage of a week’s duration.
Will tell you more of this at another time.
Columbia
Zamboanga, P.I.
Good Friday, 1902
I’m so frightened today for we had a hard earthquake. I wondered what it was at first then when I saw every thing moving from side and heard the creat and groan as it was twisted about, then I knew it was an earthquake and I held on good and tight that I might not fall.
Columbia
Zamboanga, P.I.
June 23, 1902
At last my pleasant two-months vacation is ended and Miss Fay must commence her work again and since it isn’t at all proper for a young lady like myself to travel unchaperoned, I’ll not take another trip for some time. Perhaps to China and Japan then or else to Australia. Every day the cable grams tell us of so many deaths from Cholera in Manila that we spent most of our vacation in the Southern Is..
First we went on “Butuan” to Iloilo where we stayed one day, visited some old “Thomas” friends and then drove out to the “barrio” where the natives weave the fine and exquisite “Jusie” (?) cloth. How very interesting it all was. Next day we sailed for Cebu and stayed there for a single day. Took a drive but the day was so extremely warm I was glad to stay indoors at hotel most of the day.
At last we sailed for home having been gone a week. I had scarcely gotten rested when we decided to go on chartered transport “Borneo” to southern ports of Mindanao. We went directly to Davao spent one day there then left for Makar. There are few Americans at Davao and most of the natives there are “Bagobas”. Back in the mountains are many pagan tribes of whom I will tell you more at another time.
Mt. Apo, a volcano, is very near Davao and can be plainly seen. Makar is typical army post. The tents are pitched on the banks of a pretty sparkling brook and the wide spread branches of a few gigantic banyan trees afford some shade to the poor soldiers there. We were invited for a horse back ride by officers which ended very sadly for one in our party, so had to be given up. That night we again sailed from Z – and arrived here after a six days pleasant voyage.
The last trip was on the “Butuan” the boat famous for “garlic” and “hard biscuits”. I tho’t I’d certainly starve but by getting good meals at the different posts I could better fast while on board.
First on this trip we again went to Makar then to Malabang Last Christmas when at this post, I little dreamed of the fame it would have attained long ‘ere this. Every one in the States knows of the bloody war fought at Camp Vicars – just back and Malabang, and on this trip up to quarters – I saw wounded men hobbling about by aid of canes or crutches. How many homes were saddened by news of wounds or even death – after that hand to hand conflict at Lake Lanao. From Malabang, with its tented hills, the homes of heroes, we went to Pavang (Parang?) Pavaug, which is a Moro? word meaning grassy-grassy.
A few hours to discharge a slight cargo and we again streamed on to Davao where we remained a couple of days then back to Zamboanga, very tired of a ten days stay on board the “Butuan” and glad of the comforts of our own cool “casa”.
Columbia
Zamboanga, P.I.
August 1st, 1902
A recent letter from my God Mother, Mrs. Horton, has made me anxious to again go home, home to brothers and sisters, friends and loved ones, to awaken from the lethargy which inevitably seizes one in the tropics and again enter active life, begin again the work which I so long ago attempted, the happy work of helping needy little ones, feeding and clothing orphans, making the little cripples and invalids happy and scattering sunshine every-where.
Columbia
Zamboanga, P.I.
We have just learned that the U.S.A. T. McClellan is soon to leave for U.S.A. and my friends here think it a splendid chance for my return voyage if transportation can be procured.
Columbia
Zamboanga, P.I.
Happy news!
The McClellan has been ordered here and it may be I’ll at last get back to U.S.A. again.
She is now in quarantine at Manila and when out has orders to come directly to Zamboanga.
Columbia
Aug. 20th, 1902
Zamboanga, P.I.
One year ago today I went ashore in Manila. What a happy and profitable year it has been for me, but now that there are prospects for my home-going, I am excited and await anxiously the coming of the boat to have my fate decided.
Columbia
Zamboanga, P.I.
Aug. 27th, 1902
The McClellan arrived at noon of 25th ?. Last night Miss Fay went aboard to arrange for my state room. I remained at home on account of being tired. The pupils of the city schools today celebrated “Columbia Day” and so many shook my hand, and bade me goodbye that I was very tired.
Now that my departure is so near at hand I really feel very sorry to leave Zamboanga. All here have been so good and kind to me. Both the military and civil officers have extended every courtesy possible to me and I shall always rembember Zamboanga and the good people here with gratitude and love.
This morning so many of the little Filipino (sic) children came to again say goodbye to “Columbo” as they call me, that I at last consented to have my picture taken to leave with them as a farewell token.
Soon no more San Juan Days – when we all had such jolly fun. No more “processions” and “Fiestas”, no more the constant ring of old “Ave Maria” calling her children to worship and chiming the Vesper time, no more juants to the Mts. or bathing in the river. No more queer games with Rosa, Donesia, Ciriasa, Concelencion as of yore, no more fright over cholera or small pox, but all these things will exist in memory only and I, after a two or three month voyage by sea and a short journey by land will again greet all the “home folk” and tell them of love and good wishes sent them by both Americans and Filipinos (sic) of Zamboanga.
Columbia
Zamboanga, P.I.
At first the thought of this long voyage, all alone, appalled me but as has always happened a good friend comes to one in need and when I first met Capt. Nye of the McClellan I knew in his care I’d at last safely reach America.
He was very cordial and has promised my friends here that I shall have every comfort enroute. I am delighted with the prospect of sometimes going ashore and know I will see many strangers and interesting people on the three continents I visit.
Aug. 27th
Columbia
Zamboanga, P. I.
How I hate to say good-bye to Clara her mamma and Miss Fay. We have been so happy here all year in out little island home and now I am the first to leave. May we meet again at another time, again talk over the happy year here, all live to return to our native land, the land we love, America.
Columbia
Zamboanga, P.I.
Aug. 27/02
I reported on board the U.S.A. T. McClellan at 7:30 pm. will make a short stop in Misamis, P.I. and Manila where I hope to go on shore to make a few calles (sic) thence I will go Hong Kong for a visit befor (sic) starting home on my long journey.
Columbia
Aug. 29/02
We sailed from Zamboanga at 3:10 P. M. for Misamis. Pleasant weather smooth sea we are scirting (sic) the coast as I can see the loverly (sic) senery.
Columbia
Misamis
Aug. 30/02
Arrived at anchore (sic) at 6:10 P.M. I think this is a very pretty place for it has a very large bay with deep water and the Captain tolde (sic) me plenty of rocks and reefs witch (sic) were not pleasant for him.
Columbia
Misamis Mind (possibly an abbreviation of Mindoro or Mindanao), P. I.
Sept. 1/02
I went on bord (sic) Transport Trenton and spent the eavning (sic) with Capt. and Mrs. Cole. I had a loverly (sic) visit with Misses Margaret and Glades (sic) Cole they were very nice to me.
Columbia
Sept. 2/02
Sailed at 6 A.M. for Manila. Weather fine with strong N.W. wind head sea. I am enjoying life and am very happy.
Columbia
Sept. 2″, 1902
I have had so much seafaring life that there wasn’t a great deal of novelty in the trip from Misamis to Manila. All during the day of Sept. 4″. We were along the west coast of Luzon and here and there passing through the narrow channels which separate the many islands one from another. The scene was a beautiful one and entirely different from any I have ever witnessed before. I had hoped that we would reach Manila during the early part of the afternoon, but the wish was not gratified and it was near seven P.M. When we dropped anchor just outside the end of the break water. The Quarantine officers do not visit ships which arrive in the harbor after sunset, so there was little for me to do but retire and wait the coming of day and the officer who has the say so as to whether we will be allowed to go ashore or not.
Sept. 5″
“This has been my busy day.” Information was brought on board at an early hour that we were to take on a small quantity of coal and proceed to Hong Kong. I was extremely anxious to make this trip, for it is not at all likely that I will ever be in this part of the world again. Of course, I couldn’t just stay on board to go like a stowaway. I had to go (sic) the office of the Chief Quartermaster of the Division of the Phillipines and get a permit. I must be a privileged character for my slightest request is granted without a word of complaint.
Sept. 6″
We did not get away from Manila till late this afternoon. We had a fine crowd of passengers…about 30 in all. Army officers and their families. The wives and families of Civil employers of the “Insular” Gov’t. and others. All anxious for a cheap trip to China and to do a little shopping in a place where the merchants are not onto the American rule of “Do the other fellow before he does you” as is the case in Manila. The usual amount of sea sickness was in evidence among the passengers but the trip was a short one and they were all able to leave the ship on the first launch.. We arrived at Hong Kong on the evening of September 9th and we all went ashore to have a look around.
Bright and early this A.M. I went ashore. ?Artrimminia? to see all that a short visit would allow of the port of Hong Kong. Hong Kong is the name of the island. Victoria of the city. It is a British possesion and a “conparately recent acquisition to the English Domain. In less than ?twenty-five? (possibly 75) years the city has grown to be one of the greatest shipping marts of the world, ranking with such ports as Liverpool, Hamburg and New York. Laying at anchor near the “McClellan” were ships from all parts of the world. It is surprising how much nearer one feels to home here than at Manila. Passing up the street from the pier one of the first objects to attract one’s attention is a large sign of the Canadian Pacific R.R. Co. over their office. The Northern Pacific also have an office near. Other names familiar to us are seen on all sides.
What the Railroads are to chicago, St. Louis, Boston and other American Cities such are the steamship lines to Hong Kong. This the great distributing point for all this far eastern country, and one has no idea of its magnitude till they have visited its great ports.
People whom I visit seem very hospitable, and seemed anxious that I should enjoy my stay in all there was to be seen and leave with a good impression of the city and its people. The strange sights are to (sic) numerous to mention, but a few of the most striking. — I see women who had been subjected to the foot binding process from infancy till their feet were not feet at all but mere stumps and they walked like one with a peg leg. It is an almost barbarous process and I am told is slowing dying out in China. How the women do what seems to me to be more than their share of the hard manual labor. They help to row the boats in the harbor, carry brick, mortar, stone and water around buildings in course of construction. Maternal duties are not allowed to interfere. Mothers will strap an infant on their back, in much the same manner as an Indian Squaw carries her papoose. Then the little one hangs. If it slip’s its little head falls from side to side till you would think its neck would be broken. It must be a case of the survival of the fittest for a youngster that can pass the time till he is able to shift for himself must be able to endure most any hardship in after life.
A view of Hong Kong from the harbor is a beautiful sight and one long to be remembered. There are business blocks, Hotel buildings and residences which would do credit to any American city. The style of architecture is peculiar to this city alone. I have not seen the same at any of the other cities visited. The English people have a way of doing everything which is peculiar to themselves. It may be slow from an American point of view, but when it is finished it is Right.
On board the
transport McClellan
Sept. 11, 1902
I left Manila in charge of Captain Nye. We were bound for Hong Kong where the transport was to be docked and repaired for the journey to New York some weeks later. I suppose I must say I liked Hong Kong, but realy (sic) sometimes it was dreadfully slow. I visited the American Cousul and was treated with all consideration.
Sept. 16th
I went aboard the “Fatshau” at six o/c P.M.. Very soon we were crossing the bay, and at 9:30 P.M. we entered the Canton river. We disembarked at 8 o/c next morning. Our guide came with sedans chair to take us through Canton. I was very much surprised to see that human beings could exist in so much dirt. The streets were so narrow that too (sic) chairs could scarcely pass, and several times there was a colission (sic), and the top of my chair was knocked awry. We visited the execution grounds and several jails. The temples were some-what interesting. At noon we went to the five storied pagoda where lunch was served. This place was very interesting: our guide informed us that the pagoda was eight hundred years old, and very it looked it. We had a splendid view of the city seeing one solid mass of roofs. In Canton, not a ray of sun shine is allowed to penetrate, and when ever it does, mats are stretched across from roof to roof. Our party registered at the pagoda, and we bade it goodby (sic) leaving by a path way composed of steps only three or four inches thick. We saw many thinks of interest, but I breathed a sigh of relief when the gong clanged and once more we were afloat.
Columbia
Sept. 20th
We were all on board at an early hour today and at about the middle of the afternoon we were off for Manila. Most of us good and tired after the ? of the past ten days and all loaded down with purchases of beautiful things which may be had in China at such small cost.
We were all glad of the opportunity afforded for rest, but some were to (sic) much sea sick to enjoy the quiet. I have to laugh at my fellow passengers for sea sickness never effects (sic) me the least bit. But I am such an old sailor now. One gets used to most any thing and I suppose they would all get over being sea sick if they went to sea long enough.
Sept. 23rd
We were in Manila harbor at an early hour this A.M. but when the health officer came on board he discovered some irregularity in our clearance papers from Hong Kong and none from the ship were allowed to land but the ship and all on board were sent Marivales – the Quarantine Station – to be fumigated. Hong Kong is supposed to be an infected port. The idea of a pest-hole like Manila where you can get anything from Measles or Mumps to Plague and Cholera guarantining against as clean a city as Hong Kong. That’s a joke Ha! Ha! But we went to Marivales and in the evening we were again at anchor in Manila Harbor. As we sail for New York on Sept. 30th I will be rushed to death getting transportation and making my arrangements for the long voyage.
1902 Oct. 1st
At 3:45 P. M. we were underway for New York City. As we steamed slowly out of the harbor we were given a fairwell (sic) salute from each of the many ships in the harbor. Three long blasts from the whistle said “Good-by” (sic) and we returned each one. We were followed for some distance by the harbor tugs on board of which was some friend or relative of one or more of my fellow voyagers. I feel that I am really started toward home now. Although going by the Suez Route will take me near a month longer on the journey. But there is a great deal to see. In this day one is not “much travelled” if they say “I have visited England, Germany, The Alps or St. Peters at Rome,” but if they say “I have been in China, Japan, Colombo or historic Malta” you know they have been out of the path of the ordinary tourist and have seen sights as beautiful and interesting as they but different. We were all disappointed in not having Gen. Chaffee and his wife with us on the journey. They had expected to return this way, but Mrs. Chaffee’s health prevented her taking such a long voyage. We have a very nice crowd on board, about forty in all. There is plenty of room on board and every one is made quite comfortable. As is usually the case in the early part of a voyage, sea sickness was very in evidence. It can’t be to (sic) rough for me. I am an old sailor. From Manila to Singapore is 1386 miles (nautical). This distance we expect to cover in about five days. The “McClellan” is not the swiftest craft afloat, but she can be depended upon to put near three hundred miles behind her each twenty-four hours.
1902, Oct. 7th
We were anchored in the open ? off the City of Singapore at about seven o’clock last evening. It was to (sic) late for the Health Officer to visit the ship so we all had to content ourselves with the sight of the vista of lights of the city and harbor.
At an early hour this morning we were cleared by the Quarantine Doctor and all were allowed to go on shore. A notice had been posted that the ship would sail on the morning of October 10th. This gave us three full days in which to explore the many interesting ? of this Malay metropolis. Landing at Johnson’s Pier, where every person who visits the city and who has arrived by steamer, must enter the city, we are surprised at the beauty of the near by (sic) buildings. The Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Co.’s Building, and that of the Post Office and Army and Navy club, being particularly attractive. Getting in a “ricksha,” we were soon in front of “The Raffles Hotel” of which Kipling says “Traveler take warning. When in Singapore dine at Raffles.”
Singapore is another of the possessions of the British Crown that has grown from a savage island to one of the greatest shipping marts of the world. Founded by Sir Stamford Raffles February 6″, 1819 in four months it was a thriving city of 5000. Its growth has been remarkable till today its population numbers near 250,000 persons and it is the principal city of the Malay Peninsula, as well as one of the most important cities of the Orient.
Tiffin was had in the large, cool dining room. After that had been finished we drove to the Botanical Gardens and the Palace of the Sultan of Johor? The temperature here is fine and remarkable when one remembers that they are almost on the equator, being only a little more than sixty five miles from the line which seems to by synonymous with heat.
While in Singapore I was royally entertained. Met a number of the people from America who are connected with the Missionary work here. Was invited to visit the Methodist Mission Schools, but lack of time prevented my doing so. The United States Consul, Mr. Williams of Rochester, N.Y. was particularly kind to me and intrusted himself in introducing me and explaining my mission.
Oct 10″
Like the Arab folds his tent and steals away so with the first ? of dawn we stole out of Singapore harbor. When I came on deck we were out of sight of the city, but had the land in view on either side. Our course was to the north and west through the Straits of Malacca. Years ago this was a dangerous passage to make because of the Malay pirates who infested these waters. Stories of the barbarous cruelty inflicted on the women are to be heard and read about. From Singapore to Colombo, our next port, is 1680 miles. There is little novelty on ship board and we were all settled down to the routine of every day life.
Oct. 15″
This morning we were steaming along the South and west shore of Ceylon. The day was a beautiful one and scene was highly interesting. We passed Point De Galle at about 9 A.M. and were anchored in the harbor at six P.M..
Colombo is a beautiful city. The streets are wide and shaded by beautiful trees. In the business center the buildings are very pretty. The residence portion of Colombo is very beautiful. It is called “The Cinnamon Garden”. It was here that Bishop Heber got the inspiration for his beautiful hymn which has been sung in every part of the world where the Christian Religion is taught
“From Greenlands (sic) icy mountain
From India’s coral strand
And Ceylon (sic) spicy breezes, etc.”
Where the most attractive part of the city and the Victoria Park are now located, a few years ago was ? with a growth of cinammon brush. The pleasure of a drive through here in the morning is enhanced by these same spicy breezes.
Of all the spots visited during my travels through the Orient, that of the Galle Face Hotel at Colombo is the most beautiful. I felt that I would like to remain here indefinitely. The Hotel is reached from the business portion of the city by a drive of about a mile and a half right along the sea shore. When one white crested billow, followed by another, with ceaseless regularity, breaks right by your side and as you ride along you are fanned by the cool and refreshing breeze from the vast expanse of ocean. The waves of the ocean wash the very foundation of the hotel. An interior court, which overlooks the ocean is a dream of tropical verdean beauty.
Oct. 17″
We all went up to Kandy today. Kandy is the ancient capital of the island of Ceylon. To the Singhalese it stands in the same relation as Granada to the Moors. Here it was that the tribal chiefs took up their position and made their alst stand for liberty and independence. England has held the Island of Ceylon since 1802 (the treaty of Amiens) but the Dutch were in possession of for 138 years prior to that time and the Portugese ahead of them for 153 years and it is only within a comparatively short time that anything more than the sea coast could be brought to acknowledge the sovereignty (sic) of any foreign power.
Situated eighty four miles to the interior and at an elevation of 1500 ft. above sea level the location of Kandy is most picturesque. Surrounded on all sides by towering mountains their sides to the very summit – covered with a wealth of tropical ? , a lake in the very midst of the town fed by a mountain stream make the place a fairy land of beauty. Nor is the trip from Colombo to Kandy less beautiful. The bold and rugged grandeur of the mountains and valleys is the equal of any thing I have ever seen. All through the up land country tea is the staple production. It is here that the vast estate of Sir Thomas Lipton is located. I see the product in all of its stages from the green busk (husk?) to the small square tins packed ready for shipment and immediate consumption. Here in Ceylon we can buy Lipton’s Best Broken Orange Pekoe (sic) for one Rupee per lb. (33 {cents symbol} gold).
It is said that the Botanical Garden at Kandy is the most beautiful in the Orient. It is certainly the most beautiful of any I have visited. Here at Kandy I had my first sight of an elephant used as a working machine. Not the same as we use a horse, for he will do the work of many horses, nor as a traction engine is used, for he will go where an engine could not be taken. In mining and lumbering he does the heaviest and hardest kind of work.
The exact location of “the land of ?” of Biblical history is pretty much a speculation. Some insist that it was along the east coast of Africa, while others with equal force of argument, say it was the island of Ceylon. If the later (sic) is correct the island is today, as in the days of King Soloman (sic) rich in Gold, Precious stones and rare wood.
Columbia
Sunday, Oct. 19th
I came on board last night with the other passengers. We had seen about all of Columbo that a harried visit would allow. Few cities of similar size can show a more varied mingling of the human race than is to be found here. During a walk through the business section I met men is fesses, men in hats, men in turbans, men in (pith?)coats, men in trowsers (sic), men in boots, men in great ? red or yellow slippers, men in nothing at all but the burnished livery of the sun. In all this has been one of the most interesting cities I have visited in my travels and I would not have missed it for a great deal.
At five thirty P.M. we steamed slowly out of the harbor. The bow of the ship turned toward the setting sun and we were once again on our homeward journey.
From Columbo to Aden is 2130 miles and from Aden to Suez 1310 miles. As we are to make the run from Columbo to Suez without calling at Aden, this is the next longest run of the entire voyage. That from Gibralter, via the southern route, being about 1200 miles farther. Malta and Gibralter quarantine against Aden, Suez and Port Said so we will not be allowed to go on shore at either of the ? places. Add 86 miles, the length of the Canal, and 940 miles, the distance from Port Said to Malta, and you will find that I am now beginning a journey of 3466 miles.
Monday, Oct. 27″
We were abreast of Aden at an early hour this afternoon and later passed the Island of Perim. Aden and Perim are both English possessions. A small garrison is kept at either place. Each are one of the chain of outposts – which encircle the globe – and which England maintains for the protection of her vast commerce. Not only does “the sun never set on the British domain – but the evening gun fire resounds around the world.”
Oct. 31″, Friday
This afternoon we entered the Gulf of Suez. The land was in plain view on either side. To the left is Egypt and the land of Goshen, the later (sic) not in sight, but I know that a few miles to the westward, across the waste of desert sand, is the land of the Pharoahs from which the children of Israel started on their long pilgramage (sic) to the Promised Land. Directly o the right is Mount Horab and Sinai and all the country made historical by their 40 years wanderings, where Moses received the Law. The Lord rained manna, and Aaron smote the rock with his rod. Before reaching Suez we must have crossed the place where the waters of the Red Sea parted for the Children of Israel to cross, and where the army of the Pharoah was destroyed.
It seems a bit strange that all this country, which was the scene of so many of the most important events and teachings of the Bible – should have been, within such a short time after the birth of the Savior, been (sic) wrested solely and completely from the hands of the Christians and have remained so to this day. The Star and Cresand (sic) has been able to hold its own over the Cross.
Nov. 1st
Today I passed through the Suez Canal. Until a few years ago this was the engineering feat of the age, but it is dwarfed today by such undertakings as the London, or Boston, or New York under ground railways. The canal is eighty six miles long, has a surface breadth of from seventy two to three hundred feet and a uniform depth of twenty four feet. Work on the construction of the Canal was begun on April 11″, 1859 and it was not completed & opened for traffic till November 16″ 1869. One of the hardest problems to be met during the course of its construction was the supplying of fresh water to the small army of men employed. The construction of a canal at this point was no modern conception.. Herodotus tells of the work done and the lives lost and the abandonment of the project. The Venitians (sic) at a later day did some work at it. Napoleon caused surveys to be made but it remained for Ferdinand De Lessips ? to devise and carry out a plan which now connects Continental Europe with the Orient by a water route shorter by months in time and thousands of miles in distance to be travelled than before its completion.
It cost one ship nearly five thousand dollars to pass through this eighty six miles of waterway.
Columbia
Nov. 2nd
We reached Port Said at 3 AM. Was not allowed to land. At 7:15 AM we were on our way to Malta.
At the extreme end of the breakwater which has been built out into the sea to protect the canal from the mud (?) deposits of the Nile is a beautiful statue of De Lessips (?)
Nov. 6th
We arrived at Valetta Malta last night at about 8 o’clock. It was dark. This morning when I came on deck I was treated to a sight radically different from any I have seen in my travels. We were at anchor in the small but splendid harbor of Valletta and surrounded by a great many of the ships of the British Navy. There were more than thirty of the First Class battle ships anchored in sight. Valletta is on the Right hand as you enter the harbor, but one has to be acquainted to know where one town ends and the other begins for the harbor is completely surrounded.
Without doubt this is the most historical place I have visited. The Phoenicians are supposed to have been in the islands B.C. 1519. In 736 B.C. the Greeks annexed the island and gave it the name of Melita. The Carthaginians expelled the Greeks, and at the conclusion of the struggle for supremacy between Carthage and Rome, Malta became part of the extensive dominions of the latin (?) power. In 484 AD. the vandals gained possession, and from that date till the end of the eleventh century the island was a ? haunt of Arab and Saracen pirates. In 1530 the island was handed over by Charles V Emperor of Spain to the Order of St. John and from that date is closely identified with the Knights of St. John and Malta and the greater number of the sights of interest are the relic (sic) of the prosperous government of the Knights. Probably the item of most importance to Christiandom is that the Apostle St. Paul was ship wrecked here when on his mission to the Romans. St. Paul’s Bay is one of the show places of the island and is always pointed out to visitors.
A monument marks the spot where this boat was beached and where the landing was made. On Sept. 3rd 1798 the island was surrended (sic) to Napoleon, who entered the city and looted it of its more valuable relics, all of which went to the bottom of the sea, for the frigate laden with the spoils was sunk by a British man of war. The French only held control for two years, when Great Britain established a protectorate and the Treaty of Paris placed? it a fort of the British domain.
Relics of all these different dominions are to be found in the museums and in the architecture of the city. St. Johns Cathedral, the Chapple (sic) of Bonis (?), the Catacombs, St. Pauls Bay, the Palace of the Grand Masters and the museum were all visited and our three days were entirely to (sic) short. I should like to remain here a month. The U.S. Consul at Valletta, Mr. John H. Grants ? is from our town of Boston and has just returned from a visit there. He did all that he could to make my stay here enjoyable, and it was.
Columbia
Nov. 12
We reached Gibralter this A.M. at eight o’clock. We have all heard of the strength of the Rock of Gibralter. It is used as a figure of speech to represent the extreme? strength and safety, but it must be seen to have a carrect idea, and the seeing only adds to the former opinion. I went ashore this morning and spent the day sightseeing. The city of Gibralter is comparatively small. It is built along the side of the rock, and the streets running …. to the bay may be driven over, but those in the opposite direction are up the steep hillside and one must walk. Some are merely a long flight of stone steps. We visited the …. which are only a long tunnel througth the rock with openings looking out over the sea, the bay and Spain. Behind each opening is a (high engine of destruction?).with rows of its death dealing fuel piled high on either side. This is the strategic position which insures England’s control of the Mediterranean. The combined navies of the world might exhaust their ammunition against this rock with little or no effect. England has stored in the vast recesses of the rock supplies sufficient to subsist a garrison of 5000 men for five years.
I took a drive across the….grounds, or no man’s land into Spain. Nothing more than this drive is needed to convince one of the prosperity and enterprise of the British and the decadence of Spain. From the clean and well kept city of Gibralter to the filth and squalor of La Linea
Even though I have only been over the border I can say I have been in sunny Spain.
I heard that a party was to leave the ship next morning, November 20th, for the purpose of making a visit to Africa, and although it was to start at an extremely early hour, I decided to go. The Captain kindly had the launch ready for us, and as soon as breakfast was over we were conveyed to the Spanish steamer, reaching there just in time to get aboard before she started. The morning was very fine, the air crisp, so we staid (sic) out on deck in order to enjoy the beautiful scenery as we sailed out of Gibralter harbor, and along the Spanish coast. We first went to Algeciras, a prosperous town on the Spanish mainland opposite to Gibralter. It is here that the rail road, which goes through Spain to Malaga, Cordova, and Granada has its terminal. The town of Algeciras is most attractive to one viewing it from the harbor, and many of us wished we could go ashore and view the sights in this modern Spanish city, but time would not permit, so we were soon steaming down the coast, enjoying a long distance view of Gibralter and the hills of Sunny Spain. Nestling here and there among the hills could be seen quaint little cottages, surrounded by farms, and people by most picturesque and interesting individuals. Block houses, looking like miniature fudal (sic) castles were intersperced (sic) here and there throughout the hills and mountains. After reaching the city of Tarifa we took a straight course across to Africa, arriving off the town of Tangier about ten o’clock in the forenoon. Here we were met by small boats, and conveyed immediately ashore, where our guide conducted us to the Continental Hotel. This modern structure was quite a surprise to us, as we did not expect to see such a commodious hostelry in this part of the world. The Hotel is located on the edge of a high bluff, with a balcony overlooking the town. Before luncheon we took a look from this balcony out over the city and the bay. The city itself is a pretty place, composed entirely of brick and stone houses, calcimined (sic) many bright colors, with narrow streets, turreted buildings, and a continuous noise and clatter of donkey-boys and camel-men, urging their beasts of burden up and down the many steep hills throughout the city.
Luncheon over, we all mounted our donkeys, and under the direction of an official guide, proceeded to see the sights of this interesting capital of Morocco. We visited the principal shops, the market place, where the camel-men were sitting around, vending their wares, snake charmers amusing large audiences, and the ever present water carrier, with his pig skin bag filled with his stock in trade. We then rode out into the outskirts of the city, visiting the residences of the ministers accredited to this country. Of course we were struck by the fact that few women were seen upon the streets, and those we did see were almost entirely enshrouded in white flowing robes, with the smallest possible opening for the eyes. Our donkey-boys could all speak english, so we were able to learn many interesting things about these people. The streets, above all things, were most interesting. They were narrow, crooked and hilly. In places two donkeys could not pass, and very frequently houses were arched over the street, so that the passenger on the road went through a miniature tunnel.
The ladies of our party visited the harem of the Sultan of Morocco. This interested me exceedingly. We saw about a dozen ladies, all dressed in Moorish costume, with garments of silk and jewels. They were very beautiful and seemed to be contented and satisfied. Some of us purchased lace and embroidery work which they made. One is required to pay an export duty on articles taken from the country, and the tariff commissioner sits at the entrance to the dock, and tells each traveller, as he leaves, how much duty he will have to pay upon the articles he is taking with him. We decided to remain over night at Tangier, and I am very glad we did, for after dinner we visited coffee houses and restaurants and saw how the native moorish men pass their leisure hours. These coffee houses have a band or orchestra, composed of three or four violins, a tamborine, and something which resembles cascanets. The men sit flat upon the floor, with legs crossed, where they smoke and drink coffee, and frequently play cards while listening to the music. The coffee which is served to you, by a native in fancy dress, is very black and sweet. Having had a tire some day I retired early in order to be fresh for another donkey ride in the morning. Soon after breakfast on the following day we set out on donkeys to ride through another section of the city, extending out tour to the outskirts of the city where we saw huts of the poorer class built at the edge of the desert. These huts are cone shaped, and constructed of neppa and straw, thatched with cactus. They cover a ground space of about a hundred square feet. We saw several fine Arabian horses which attracted the eye of the Officers in the party, and even I wished for a small one to drive in a pony cart. We were shown the residence of a wealthy American, who lives in Morocco, and most of us thought it about the prettiest residence we had seen.
The soldiers of the Sultan are commanded and drilled by an ex-English officer, who is gradually getting them into good conditions. Their uniform consists of blue cloth, trimmed in red, with red turbans.
While we were at the hotel a wedding party passed, which interested all of us because it was so different from any thing we have at home. It amounted to a street procession, headed by a band of music, with the bride and groom relatives and friends following. The bride was riding in something resembling a sedan chair, and the groom who was some distance from her, was riding a horse.
We were told that they were going to visit one of the friends of the groom, but just why this should be, no one could tell us. After an early lunch we started back to Gibralter, reaching our good ship McClellan about four in the afternoon.
Saturday, Nov. 15
At 5:00 o’clock this morning I am again at sea, and plowing through the sea to the westward. I am so happy to think I am so near home, for the Captain – who has been my guardian during this long voyage – has told me he would send me to Boston very soon after our arrival at New York.
I will have such a long and interesting story to tell of my travels and the sights I have seen.
Leaving Gibralter our course will be to the south and to a point just north of Bermuda, then to the N.W. into New York. The sight of Scotland light will be a welcome one.
Nov. 19
Up to today we have had fine weather. Everyone had sort of a horror of reaching the broad Atlantic, for at this season of the year storms are not infrequent. It blew a little today and we may have some rough weather before we reach port.
Nov. 25
Have passed through a pretty stiff blow. Old sailors say it might have been worse, but this is quite enough for one, thank you. We are all counting the days and speculation has been at a high pitch as to when we would reach New York. I have guessed that we will pass quarantine – on the afternoon of November 29″. Some of those on board have been away from their homes and friends for a longer time than I, others not for so long, but we will all be happy to again be among our friends. The pleasure of the most interesting travel is always increased by the meeting of those we love.
Columbia
Nov. 30″
We reached an anchorage off Liberty Station last evening, but to (sic) late for one to go ashore.
Excitement was at a high pitch last evening, friends and relatives came on board, and it would do your heart good to see the meetings.
The Captain has told me he would send me at once to my friends in Boston. I am one of the poor unfortunates who have hosts of friends but none who would or did inconvenience themselves to welcome me at New York. I am sure of a warmer and heartier reaction when I meet my friends of the International Doll Collection in Boston. I am to go by New York and Boston Express and hope to be with you in a few days.
Columbia
New York, Dec. 23/02
My Dear Columbia
It is with pleasure I have hade (sic) you as one of my passengers for a part of your long voyage around the World.
I will now send you to your Friends in Boston whare (sic) I know you will be received with open armes. (sic)
With best wishes and compliments of the season.
Very Respt (sic)
Capt. WE Nye (?)
U.S.A.T. McClellan
pier 13 E. River
Boston Dec. 24th – 6 p.m.
Columbia arrived by the Adams Express Co. and was delivered at 482 Mass. Ave.
Dec 25th – much to the surprise and delight of her owner who heard nothing from her for months except a postal from Colombo Ceylon Oct. 19.
Columbia left April 12th 1900 from Manager C.S. Spencer’s Boston office of the Adams Exp. Co. and returned by him Thursday Dec. 25-1902 to the owner Mrs. E.R. Horton after an absence of 2 years and about 8 months. At home at last in dear old Boston after a journey by land and sea of many thousands of miles. A happy journey it has been, everybody so good and kind so she ? – I have made dear friends of young and old. Helped to raise money for the needy. All seemed to vie with one another to give me the very best time. Was ever a little doll so lucky as I – and all owing to the kindness of not only the express Co. who started me, but all others into whose hands I have fallen – to one and all I tender my heartfelt thanks and wish for everyone the kindness to them they have bestowed upon me.
Columbia
Boston Dec. 26th 1902
Laconia, N.H.
Feb. 14″ 1903
I have just closed a most successful engagement of four days in the “City on the Lakes”, as a special attraction for the Masonic Fair” which has been held in the interests of the Masonic Fair Assoc. for the purpose of raising funds to re-build and refurnish their beautiful Masonic Temple recently destroyed by fire.
(2 photos of Masonic Temple)
I was furnished a specially constructed booth, hansomly (sic) decorated, where with my collection of books and presents given me by people of the various nations visited during my recent trip around the world. I was visited by the hundreds of patrons of the Fair who were all charged an admission to my booth.
My short stay in this pretty little city has been most pleasant socially, and successful financially. Nearly all of my spare time, when not engaged at the Fair, has been spent in fishing through the ice on the famous lake Winnepusaukee (sic) where I succeeded in landing several of the larger lake trout which abound in the “Smile (?) of the Great Spirit”
Columbia
Boston, Mass. Dec.7, ‘05
December 6 and 7 I offered my services for the benefit of the Metaphysical Club of Boston; there I met many ladies and children who were deeply interested in my history, and the souvenirs gathered from foreign lands.
Before I left there they gave me a happy surprise in adding to my numerous company of dolls, a typical American Sailor boy.
Columbia
Dexter, Maine, Dec. 28, 1905
On the afternoon of Dec. 27, by invitation I attended a reception and doll party given by the Womans (sic) Literary Club of Dexter to the “little daughters of the club.” of dolls of all ages there was not end but I and my curious collection were the chief attraction. The next day I help (sic) an informal reception and received innumerable calls from admiring people. I enjoyed my visit in the State of Maine and received a warm reception which dispelled the cold of the Christmas Weather.
Columbia